55 miles N of San Francisco
The city of Napa serves as the commercial center of the Wine Country and the gateway to Napa Valley. Most visitors whiz right past it on their way to the heart of the valley, but if you do veer off the highway, you'll be surprised to discover a small but burgeoning community of nearly 73,000 residents and some of the most affordable accommodations in the area. It is also in the process of gentrification, thanks to (relatively) affordable housing, a charming old-fashioned downtown, and new restaurants and attractions like Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts. Heading north on either Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail leads you to Napa's wineries and the more quintessential Wine Country atmosphere of vineyards and wide-open country views.
The biggest new attraction in Napa Valley, Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts, 500 First St. (tel. 707/259-1600), opened at the end of 2001 with a mission to explore how wine and food influence our culture. This $50 million multifaceted facility, chaired by Robert Mondavi, tackles the topic in myriad ways, including visual arts à la rotating exhibits, vegetable and herb gardens, culinary demonstrations, wine classes, concerts, and opportunities to dine and drink on the premises. Day passes include entrance into the building and gardens, exhibitions, tours, and free 30-minute introductory classes. More advanced food, wine, garden, and art classes cost extra. A cafe offers gourmet picnic items and a killer wine bar offers tastes of hard-to-find gems, while the adjoining restaurant, Julia's Kitchen, named after Chef Child, is a more formal French-California affair; do make reservations for the restaurant as it's bound to be busy.
If you're around in summer or fall definitely check out the Monday night outdoor concert series. I often grab a lawn chair and head to the amphitheater for spectacular vocal and dance performances under Napa's soothing night sky. It's Napa at its best.
Admission is $13 for adults, $10 for students and seniors 62 and over, and $7.50 for children ages 6 to 12. The center is open Wednesday through Monday from 10am to 5pm.
Anyone with an appreciation for art absolutely must visit the di Rosa Preserve, which through a private tour explores the collection and 53-acre grounds of Rene and Veronica di Rosa, who have been collecting contemporary American art for more than 40 years. Their world-renowned collection features over 1,500 works in all media by more than 600 Greater Bay Area artists. Their treasures are displayed practically everywhere, from along the shores of their 30-acre lake to each nook and cranny of their century-old winery-turned-residence, adjoining building, two additional galleries, and gardens. It's located at 5200 Sonoma Hwy. (Calif. 121/12). Visits are by appointment only, when a maximum of 25 guests are guided through the preserve. Each tour lasts 2 to 2 1/2 hours and costs $12 per person. (Free the 1st and 3rd Wed of each month.) Call tel. 707/226-5991 for reservations.
Discount shoppers should pull off Highway 29 at Napa's First Street exit to find the Napa Premium Outlets (tel. 707/226-9876). Along with Barneys New York you'll find multiple places to part with your money including Tse (killer cashmere at basement prices!), Nine West, Esprit, Jones New York, BCBG, a few kitchenware shops, a food court, and a decent (but expensive) sushi restaurant. The shops are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 8pm and Sunday from 10am to 6pm.
Antiques hounds should plan to spend at least an hour at Red Hen's co-op collection of antiques, which is further north on Highway 29. You'll find everything from baseball cards to living-room sets, and prices are remarkably affordable. You can't miss this enormous red barn-style building at 5091 St. Helena Hwy., on Calif. 29 at Oak Knoll Avenue West (tel. 707/257-0822). It's open daily from 10am to 5:30pm.
South of downtown Napa, 1 1/3 miles east of Calif. 29 on Calif. 12, is the Chardonnay Golf Club (tel. 707/257-8950), a challenging 36-hole land-links golf complex with first-class service. There are three nines of similar challenge, all starting at the clubhouse so that you can play the 18 of your choice. You pay just one fee, which makes you a member for the day. Privileges include the use of a golf cart, the practice range (including a bucket of balls), and services usually found only at a private club. Starting times can be reserved up to 2 weeks in advance. Greens fees (including mandatory cart and practice balls) are $70 Monday through Friday, $90 weekends and holidays; at 2pm, fees go down to $45 and $60, respectively, and at 4pm they drop to $35. Limited space is available to play the private course, which goes for $130 per person.
